Sunday, July 26, 2020

04-"Tanks Alot!"

There are four main elements every internal combustion engine needs to run:
Air, Fuel, Spark & Compression
In my journey to get Jeannie breathing again, I've decided to start with fuel (& air will probably follow a close second) Why? Because of the old saying: "Rust Never Sleeps" The rust in the tank isn't stopping by itself, (left to continue, it would devour the remaing metal completely, rendering it useless) so follow along as I show and describe the (sometimes BIZARRE) steps I took restoring the fuel tank.


Removing the tank from Jeannie (I'm NOT calling her Honda, or "the bike"-read chapter 2) was fairly simple: cut two (!!) fuel lines, (I'll install new ones later rather than re-using the rotting old ones) remove 2 mounting bolts, slide the tank back and lift off. (one fuel line to the carb, the other I learned is a "Cross-Over" feed line, due to the center hump design, fuel cannot flow between both sides of the tank, thus the extra external line) Once off and sitting on my work bench, I capped off the LH & RH fuel cross-over fittings, then took it outside and filled it with water, where it sat for a week with the level staying at the top.

Water level remained full for a whole week, no leaks here.

After draining, (I won't described what flowed out during that first dump, I'm not even sure I could identify any of the stuff,  it was pure garbage) I planned the steps to remove the fuel petcock.
What really concerned me about removing the fuel petcock are the screws. (moving forward, I'm not using the original design, it's pricey, usually leaks, and there is a modern day conversion available, more on that later) It's held in by 3 phillips screws, sized M5 x .9 x 35 JIS What do these numbers mean? M5=5mm diameter (no problem) 35=35mm length (again, no problem) .9=thread pitch or space between threads (BIG problem!) Dealing with the JIS phillips style head slots is concern enough, (JIS=Japan Industry Standard) but they haven't made .9mm pitch screws since the 60s! You just can't go to a parts or hardware store and find this size. (Almost made from "Un-Obtainium" a name given to parts that are nearly impossible or VERY expensive to find) So, you can understand my worries here, would the screws strip out as I removed them? Would the welded blind nuts inside the tank strip out? (or worse, snap off) Where would I find replacements? Have you priced new ($$$) or usable used Honda fuel tanks?

Awhile back, I had the pleasure of working in a small upholstery shop, run by a retired Army officer. (he called working his business "Therapy") His small shop was amazing, covered floor to ceiling with tools. His motto? "There's a correct tool for EVERY JOB!" And you know what? He's right!

Vessel Impact JIS Screwdriver

Study this picture carefully-they'll be a test on it in the morning!

Having been through learning all about JIS screws during my last restore project (read chapter 1) I simply grabbed my impact screwdriver, gave the screws a few taps with a hammer, and PRESTO! out came the screws intact! (much to my satisfaction, I needed those to be intact & re-usable)

Fuel petcock removed, showing the mounting holes

Okay, now I need to dry out the inside of the tank completely, bone dry.

Air funnel, part 1

After drying, on to the next step

All the pieces needed for the next step

Ready? Check list please

32 assorted nuts & bolts, CHECK!


Fuel cap opening sealed? CHECK!


Petcock hole sealed & cross-over fittings capped? CHECK!


Entire tank sealed in plastic? CHECK!


Tank wrapped in queen-sized foam-rubber mattress pad? CHECK!


Wrapped tank placed in clothes dryer & ready for tumbling? CHECK! WAIT! WHAAAT?!!


"Honey? What's that noise coming from the basement?"
"It's fine dear, go back to your book."

I warned you, some of these steps are BIZARRE!

So, after tumbling for about 20 mins in the dryer (NO heat! Air ONLY!) with all those nuts & bolts inside making a loud, strange racket, here's what came out


Rust, formally coating the inside of the tank, now set FREE!

So, now I re-installed the fuel petcock, put the tank outside in a leak-proof container, and filled it with 3.5 gallons of white vinegar

Sitting outside for 5 1/2 days


Next step? Performing the actual tank sealing process using this kit:

POR-15 tank sealing kit

Following the instructions, the process took most of a morning (some steps require 1/2 hour soaks in different positions)

Air funnel part 2

The instructions recommended using a hair dryer or heat gun to fully dry the tank before the final seal coating, but by the time I reached that point, it was 92 degrees outside, so I just set this up on the asphalt driveway & let the sun do the work.

The final results? I'll let you decide:

SHINEY!

Before & after (no, that's a new cap)

Between the nut & bolt tumbling, the 5 day vinegar soak, and the POR-15 kit, I'd say this tank is ready to hold some gasoline!

WHEW! I know this was a long, "Wordy" chapter, but I haven't posted in almost a month! (WAY TOO HOT in NE Ohio right now) Besides, this is my winter project. As always, stay tuned!

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04-"Tanks Alot!"

There are four main elements every internal combustion engine needs to run: Air, Fuel, Spark & Compression In my journey to get Jeannie ...